Study Days

Study Days organized by L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, with the support of Van Cleef & Arpels, and the École pratique des Hautes Études (EPHE) on October 18th and 19th 2022

Journée d'etudes INHA 19 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _145

From left to right:

 

 

- Jean-François Belhoste, Study Director, École pratique des Hautes Études  

 

- Esther Allaire, University of Lille  

 

- Emmanuelle Amiot-Saulnier, Head of Research Project, L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts  

 

- Alice Huerta, Sorbonne University  

 

- Guillaume Glorieux, Director of Education and Research, L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts  

 

- Rossella Froissart, Study Director, École pratique des Hautes Études  

 

- Jérémie Cerman, Senior Lecturer, Sorbonne University  

“Jewelry in the contemporary era: the material paths of creation”

The result of a collaboration between the École Pratique des Hautes Études and L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, the study days held on October 18th and 19th, 2022 had as their theme: “Jewelry in the contemporary age: the material paths of creation”.

The objective of these two days, gathering young researchers in art history, was to study the creation of jewelry in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries in its material aspects.

The Study Days were organized by Jean-François Belhoste (École pratique des Hautes Études), Rossella Froissart (École pratique des Hautes Études) and Guillaume Glorieux (L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts).

The study days took place on October 18th and 19th 2022 at the Park Hyatt - Paris Vendôme on October 18th and at the INHA, Auditorium on October 19th Auditorium. 

The participating young researchers focused on three important stages: the invention or creation of a jewelry piece, its production, and distribution. Shining a light on the environment surrounding the object, they deepened our understanding of the creative process, from the idea to the object to its distribution.

They showcased different workshop practices and the presentation of jewelry to the public at the extremely important transition phase from craftsman to artist. These study days made it possible to retrace the advent of modern jewelry and the practices that surround it: the participation of creators in universal exhibitions, artistic fairs, and collaborations with artists at the turn of the 19th century.

They also emphasized the vitality of research in this particular field, which is at last taking the place it deserves within art history.

The proceedings from the two study days will be published online, via the website of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, allowing this expertise to be accessible to all.

L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts is co-organizing with the Collège de France on January 26 and 27, 2023 a study day devoted to jewelry and precious ornaments during the Renaissance.

Vallotton bijouterie

Image above: Félix Vallotton, "Le bijoutier", Documents on industrial art in the 20th century, published by La Maison moderne in Paris, 1901.
All photos © L’École Van Cleef & Arpels. Photographer: Pauline de Courrèges.

Journée d'etudes Park Hyatt 18 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES_0
Journée d'etudes INHA 19 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _41
Journée d'etudes INHA 19 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _83
Journée d'etudes Park Hyatt 18 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _79
Journée d'etudes INHA 19 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _119
Journée d'etudes INHA 19 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _158
Journée d'etudes INHA 19 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _35
Journée d'etudes Park Hyatt 18 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _110
Journée d'etudes Park Hyatt 18 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _10
Journée d'etudes Park Hyatt 18 octobre 2022 ©PAULINE DE COURREGES _195

Program

Park_Hyatt

October 18th - Park Hyatt

9:30 am - Welcome and Introduction:
Guillaume Glorieux, L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, Director of Education and Research

The Invention
Moderator: Emmanuelle Amiot-Saulnier, Head of Research Project, L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts

10:00 am - Manon Kalbez, Sorbonne University
The House of Petiteau (1809-1877): study of the creative process based on jewelry drawings.

10:20 am - Eva Petit-Conil, École du Louvre and Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne
The drawings of the Maison Robin (1824-1934), witnesses to production.

10:45 - 11:15 am - Discussion and Break 

11:15 am - Thomas Ghysdaël, Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne
Trend books and artists' portfolios: some examples of new uses in jewelry.

11:35 am - Steeve Gallizia, Institut national de la propriété industrielle and Florent Guérif, Saprat, EPHE-PSL
Jewelry and innovations in the 19th century, the example of patents filed by Alphonse Fouquet (1828-1911). 

12:10 pm - Discussion and Lunch Break

Realization
Moderation: Emmanuelle Amiot-Saulnier, Head of Research Project, L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts

2:00 pm - Thierry Renaux, Institute for the History of Aluminium
Aluminum, a new metal in 19th century jewelry (1854-1890).

2:20 pm - Célia Bellache, Saprat, EPHE-PSL, Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne
In the workshop of Berber jewelers in Algeria (1900-1930).

2:40 pm - Marion Mouchard, André Chastel Center-Paris Sorbonne
Verger (1896-1928): composition and functions of a watchmaker's workshop.

3:00 - 3:30 pm - Discussion and Break

3:30 pm - Charbel Hakim, Saprat, EPHE-PSL
Charles Arfvidson (1842-1905), his patents and productions.

3:50 pm - Elisabeth Lagarde, University of Paris Dauphine-PSL 
François Hugo (1899-1981): the birth of an innovative workshop at the service of artists.

4:15 pm - Discussion and Break

INHA.PNG

October 19 - INHA, Auditorium

9:30 am - Welcome and introduction: Rossella Froissart, Director of Saprat Studies, EPHE-PSL

Dissemination
Moderation: Jérémie Cerman, Senior Lecturer, Sorbonne University 

10:00 am - Esther Allaire, University of Lille
The French belt buckle in the 19th century: technical advances and new uses.

10:20 am - Alice Huerta, Sorbonne University
To see, to be seen and to be seen: French jewelers and jewelry makers at the 1900 Paris World Fair.

10:45 - 11:15 am - Discussion and Break

11:15 am - Florie Sou, Gemmological Association of Great Britain
Jewelry at the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts.

11:40 am - Léonard Pouy, L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
The communication campaign of the first jewelry exhibition by Gabrielle Chanel in 1932.

12:00 pm - Discussion and Lunch Break

2:00 pm - Jean-François Belhoste, Director of Studies, Saprat, EPHE-PSL, and Magali Roucaut, director
Presentation of : Gold in the ashes, documentary directed by Magali Roucaut.

2:30 pm - L'Or dans les cendres (Gold in the ashes), documentary directed by Magali Roucaut, 2018 (24 mn).

3:30 pm - Discussion 

4:00 pm - Conclusion: Evelyne Possémé, Honorary Chief Curator of the Museum of Decorative Arts, Department of Ancient and Modern Jewelry.

4:30 pm - Concluding drink