Online conversation

Collecting Shakudō: From Edo to Meiji Japan

Brooch with frogs in a water lily pond Full

Shakudō, which translates to "red copper," is a gold-infused copper alloy known for its distinctive property of developing a black surface when treated in a chemical solution

Collecting Shakudō: From Edo to Meiji Japan

From martial arts to woodblock prints, from poetry to gastronomy, Japanese culture has profoundly influenced the emergence of new aesthetics globally. In graphic and decorative crafts, local artists have also explored a diverse range of artistic expressions through the ages, including sophisticated metalsmithing techniques.

Shakudō, which translates to "red copper," is a gold-infused copper alloy known for its distinctive property of developing a black surface when treated in a chemical solution. Given its precious gold content, this alloy was primarily utilized for crafting small items but it is especially celebrated for its application in samurai sword fittings, including guards (tsuba), pommels, and scabbards.

With the implementation of Japan's sword ban in 1876 during the Meiji Era, these fittings became obsolete overnight. Samurai and sword masters were compelled to transition to new vocations with many creatively repurposing their shakudō pieces into jewelry to appeal to the European export market. The various scenes depicted on such pieces reflect this transition, capturing Japan’s rich traditions and cultures caught within a rapidly changing world.

This conversation invites the public on a journey between the traditional realm of Japanese warlords and the refined world of European collectors, highlighting the intersection of craft and jewelry fashion, serving as a wellspring of inspiration for generations of designers.

Speakers:
Laure Raibaut, Curator and Art Historian with expertise in Asian and European art
Mathilde Rondouin, Art Historian and Lecturer at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts.

Online Conversation

Developed by the teams at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts to offer a new look at the world of jewelry, these online talks bring together two experts for a 45-50 minute conversation that is followed by a Q&A session during which you may submit your questions by instant messaging.

Should you wish to learn more, L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts will send you a detailed bibliography following the event.

These talks are held in French and English and simultaneously interpreted in Cantonese, Mandarin, and Japanese. You will also find them available for viewing on YouTube at your leisure once the event has come to a close.

Participating in these conversations hosted by L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts allows you to join a community of curious enthusiasts eager to discover and learn.

Credit: Brooch with frogs in a water lily pond. Japan, late 1800s. Gold and silver-gilt shakudō. Private Collection. Photo: L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts - Benjamin Chelly