From martial arts to woodblock prints, from poetry to gastronomy, Japanese culture has profoundly influenced the emergence of new aesthetics globally. In graphic and decorative crafts, local artists have also explored a diverse range of artistic expressions through the ages, including sophisticated metalsmithing techniques.
Shakudō, which translates to "red copper," is a gold-infused copper alloy known for its distinctive property of developing a black surface when treated in a chemical solution. Given its precious gold content, this alloy was primarily utilized for crafting small items but it is especially celebrated for its application in samurai sword fittings, including guards (tsuba), pommels, and scabbards.
With the implementation of Japan's sword ban in 1876 during the Meiji Era, these fittings became obsolete overnight. Samurai and sword masters were compelled to transition to new vocations with many creatively repurposing their shakudō pieces into jewelry to appeal to the European export market. The various scenes depicted on such pieces reflect this transition, capturing Japan’s rich traditions and cultures caught within a rapidly changing world.
This conversation invites the public on a journey between the traditional realm of Japanese warlords and the refined world of European collectors, highlighting the intersection of craft and jewelry fashion, serving as a wellspring of inspiration for generations of designers.
Speakers:
Laure Raibaut, Curator and Art Historian with expertise in Asian and European art
Mathilde Rondouin, Art Historian and Lecturer at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts.