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Paris, City of Pearls

Léonard Pouy

How did Paris rise to the top of the global pearl trade one century ago? This book shows how pearls inspired Paris jewelers and, more broadly, the city’s artists.

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Paris capitale de la perle couverture

Overview

How did Paris rise to the top of the global pearl trade one century ago? Why did such a thriving market disappear? And above all, how is it that there is no longer any memory of this golden age of pearls? In addition to unraveling the latest mysteries surrounding this biomineral and its long history with mankind, this book shows how pearls inspired Paris jewelers and, more broadly, the city’s artists. 

All seem indeed to have been driven by one same “pearl mania,” and whatever their medium, be it opera, cinema, painting, photography, posters or illustrated magazines, all contributed to making pearls a visual icon of the Roaring Twenties.

Léonard Pouy​

Co-curator of the exhibition and author of Paris, City of Pearls, Art Historian and Content and Transmission Manager at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts

In both styles, about town and on the stage, in jewelry and paintings, in photographs and on cinema screens, pearls–now intrinsically linked to Paris–were everywhere.​

JAR, Sheep’s head brooch, 2006, natural pearls, cabochon star sapphires, aluminum, silver, gold.​  Private collection.​

JAR, Sheep’s head brooch, 2006, natural pearls, cabochon star sapphires, aluminum, silver, gold.​ Private collection.​

© JAR’S, photography Jozsef Tari
George Barbier, “The fountain of shells. Paquin evening gown,” Gazette du bon ton, no. 3, plate 27, 1914.​

George Barbier, “The fountain of shells. Paquin evening gown,” Gazette du bon ton, no. 3, plate 27, 1914.​

Henri Vever, corsage ornament, 1900, Mississippi pearls, diamonds, enamel, gold, silver.​

Henri Vever, corsage ornament, 1900, Mississippi pearls, diamonds, enamel, gold, silver, Collection Faerber. 

© Collection Faerber
Jean-Gabriel Domergue, advertisement for the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, La Renaissance de l’art français et des industries de luxe, January 1923.​

Jean-Gabriel Domergue, advertisement for the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, La Renaissance de l’art français et des industries de luxe, January 1923.​

© BnF
Van Cleef & Arpels, brooch, c. 1930, platinum,​  pearl, diamonds.​

Van Cleef & Arpels, brooch, c. 1930, platinum,​ pearl, diamonds, Collection Van Cleef & Arpels.

© Collection Van Cleef & Arpels

Details

Authors: Léonard Pouy. With contributions from Charline Coupeau and Olivier Segura.

Publishers: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts - Norma

Publication: November 2024

Available languages

  • Bilingual French-English: 978-2-37666-093-4

Characteristics

  • Format: 22 x 28 cm
  • 240 pages
  • 286 images

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Paris, city of pearls extract
Paris, city of pearls extract
Paris, city of pearls extract
Paris, city of pearls extract
Paris, city of pearls extract
Paris, city of pearls extract

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