Designing Jewels

Collective, under the direction of Guillaume Glorieux

Since the 15th century, these jewels on paper–bearers of unfulfilled dreams–have lurked in the shadows of the pieces to which they often gave birth. This book features 100 drawings sheds light on the value of these sketches, which are simultaneously tools, archival documents and works of art in their own right.

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Overview

Since the 15th century, these jewels on paper–bearers of unfulfilled dreams–have lurked in the shadows of the pieces to which they often gave birth. This book features 100 drawings taken mostly from the Fonds Van Cleef & Arpels sur la Culture Joaillière ranging from the second half of the 18th century to the early 20th century.

It is the first work to shed light on this little known aspect of the decorative arts, in which anonymous craftsmen and artists rub shoulders with the great names of the jewelry world, such as Tiffany, Lalique and Vever, and renowned workshops like Paillet, Brédillard and Mellerio Borgnis. By studying the techniques, artists and uses, this book reveals the value of these sketches, which are simultaneously tools, archival documents and works of art in their own right.

Guillaume Glorieux

Author of Designing Jewels, university Professor and Director of Education and Research at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts

From a technical tool used by the professions, the jewelry drawing has become a full-fledged work of art in itself, collected by knowledgeable art lovers.

René Lalique, drawing of a Paons [“Peacocks”] diadem, c. 1900, pencil, ink and gouache on paper, Paris, Fonds Van Cleef & Arpels sur la Culture Joaillière.

Léon Hatot, drawing of a Paon [“Peacock”] brooch, pencil and gouache on cardboard, c. 1920, Paris, Fonds Van Cleef & Arpels sur la Culture Joaillière

Léon Hatot, drawing of a Paon [“Peacock”] brooch, c. 1920, pencil and gouache on cardboard, Paris, Fonds Van Cleef & Arpels sur la Culture Joaillière.

Maison Mellerio-Borgnis, drawing of a brooch, c. 1865, Pearis, Fonds Van Cleef & Arpels sur la Culture Joaillière

Maison Mellerio-Borgnis, drawing of a brooch, c. 1865, Paris, Fonds Van Cleef & Arpels sur la Culture Joaillière.

George Barbier, Femme à la panthère [“Woman with Panther”], 1914, pencil, ink, gouache on paper, Paris, Fonds Van Cleef & Arpels sur la Culture Joaillière.

René Lalique, drawing of a Cygnes [“Swan”] neckplate, c. 1900, pencil, ink and gouache on BFK Rives vegetal paper, Paris, Fonds Van Cleef & Arpels sur la Culture Joaillière.